Wine tasting is not what comes to mind when people think of Canada, a country still overly associated with igloos and ice fishing. Yet, wine tours are totally linked to touristic activities in Canada’s two major wine regions: British Columbia in the West and Ontario in the East. In fact, the Canadian Wine Industry projected that wine and culinary tourism would grow by 50 percent in the two provinces between 2005 and 2015.
From the vineyards of the Ontario Niagara Peninsula, which pioneered Canadian winemaking in the 1800s, to those of Québec, Nova Scotia and further West, of Vancouver Island, Canadian wines are gaining appreciation, with the Okanagan Valley drawing attention as the “Napa of the North.”
Comparison between Canadian and European Terroirs
The concept of terroir encompasses specific criteria, yet a terroir can be as elusive as a future vintage. Usually, micro-climates and soil conditions are among the common denominators of the traditional establishment of winemaking. Since these same criteria apply to Canada, it becomes logical that Canadian wines can compete with those of France, Germany, or California, especially if one considers the significance of latitude, which determines climates, temperatures, and the distance North/South from the Equator.
While most Canadian vineyards are located much further North than California, as are those of Washington State (the second largest wine producer of the United States), Ontario lies within the same parallels as Burgundy and Bordeaux winemaking regions, hence, in the middle of the northern grape growing belt. In fact, a map will show that (Ontario) Niagara Peninsula is at the same latitude as the California and Oregon border.
In addition, according to Larry Meinert of Washington State University Department of Geology, another significant factor in grape quality at some northerly latitudes is, "...two hours more summer sunlight than occurs in California wine regions.”
The Wine Producing Regions of British Columbia
In her article The Okanagan Valley, published in August 2009, Wine Spectator Lynn Alley writes, "British Columbia emerging Okanagan Valley has the making of a serious wine region."
British Columbia is divided into five wine regions listed as Designated Viticultural Areas (DVA):
- The Okanagan Valley
- Vancouver Island
- The Gulf Islands
- The Fraser Valley
- The Similkameen Valley
The Okanagan Valley, which stretches over 130 km along the same latitude as the Rhine Valley and Champagne, is divided into three terroirs:
- North Okanagan (Vernon, Winfield, Oyama)
- Central Okanagan (Kelowna, Westbank, Peachland)
- South Okanagan (Summerland, Pencticton, Osoyoos, Oliver)
South Okanagan is situated at the Northern tip of the Sonoran Desert—a system that includes Canada’s Pocket Desert, itself part of the Great Basin Desert—that crosses the United States all the way to Mexico. Summer temperatures in the Okanagan Valley can reach those of Arizona, and the same plants and animals are found at the higher elevations of the Mexican part of the Sonoran Desert. Osoyoos and Oliver are located at the 49th parallel, which also marks the border between Canada and the United States.
The Wines of Ontario
On the East coast, most vineyards are planted at the same latitude as the Provence and Chianti wine zones, but the climate is closer to that of Burgundy. Ontario was first in bringing attention to Canadian wines in 1997 with six gold medals at Vinexpo in Bordeaux. Results from the 2010 Wine Access Canadian Wine Awards (CWA) show that Ontario is particularly suitable for the production of white wine, sweet wine, sparkling, Riesling, and for the best ice wine. DVA designated four viticultural areas in Ontario:
- The Niagara Peninsula
- Lake Erie North Shore
- Pelee Island
- Prince Edward County
Increasing competition from the Okanagan Valley might be due to climatic difference, a fact noted by the Ontario Wine Review, “Ontario is a true cold climate.” Comparatively, the Okanagan Valley is subjected to hotter summers and colder winters, and less rainfall.
From the Sparkling of Québec to Newfoundland Kosher Wine
The Canadian terroir is like any other: Some varietals do better than others. Yet, each region has found its niche, particularly with ice wine. Besides, fruit wines generate equal palatable interest at wine festivals around the country.
Vancouver Island: Although it is part of British Columbia, Vancouver Island has its own growing conditions between the wet West coast, the drier East coast, and the influence of the Pacific Ocean breeze.
Québec: Harsh winters require hard labour from passionate vintners who must back-plough to cover the vines with soil and protect them from frost. The first vineyard, Domaine des Côtes D’ardosie, was planted in 1981 in Dunham. La Route des Vins is an itinerary around some of the 28 wineries, mainly in southern Québec, where whites and méthode champenoise sparklings seem to be the wines of choice.
Nova Scotia: Located halfway between the Equator and North Pole, the maritime province claims two farm-wineries for the visitor interested in unusual red Russian grape varieties: Michurinetz and Severnyi. With a short season, the focus is on finding early-ripening clones. However, the sparklling from L'Acadie Vineyards (2007 Prestige Brut) gave Nova Scotia its first gold medal (Wine Access 2010 Canadian Wines Awards).
Prince Edward Island specializes in fruit wines.
As for Newfoundland, the Rodrigues winery offers a kosher wine (as do Rush Creek and Munro Meadery wineries from Ontario).
An Overview of Canadian Wine Rankings
With the rapid expansion of the wine industry, the British Columbia Wine Institute was created in 1990 as a body dictating domestic wine standards. According to the British Columbia Wine Guide, VQA wine stores released the following 2010 ranking for wine sales in British Columbia:
- Merlot
- Pinot Gris
- Chardonnay
- Red blends
- White blends
- Pinot noir
- Cabernet Merlot
- Gewürztraminer
In fact, Wine Access, the authority on Canadian wines, released results from their 2010 International Value Wine Awards, in which Okanagan Jackson-Triggs Merlot (2007 Proprietor's Reserve) was chosen as one of the top 25 Killer Values. And, whereas the Champion Award for Pinot Gris was attributed to New Zealand, all Judge's Choice Awards were attributed to Canadian wines. Yet, the most awarded Canadian wines of this international competition were Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. As a perspective of best value wines by country, Australia ranked #1, Canada #3, France #7, and the United States #9).
As for Wine Access results of their 2010 Canadian Wines Awards, "for the first time a Pinot Noir has won Wine of the Year." However, other varietals were not excluded; for example, Okanagan Jackson-Triggs was awarded Judge’s Choice in the Merlot and red blends categories. According to Wine Access, " B.C.'s overall performance for red wines was monumental."
Canadian Wines: Availability and Recognition on International Markets
The absence of Canadian wines abroad is due to a domestic production still too limited for exports as Canadian wines are mainly produced by boutique wineries. Indeed, the Okanagan Valley region is still "in the making." As it brings more visibility to Canadian wines, it is only a matter of time until all regions receive cross-border validation.
Sources
- Agriculture and Agri-food in Canada: The Canadian Wine Industry.
- The Canadian Encyclopedia: Wine Industry.
- The British Columbia Wine Institute: B.C. Wine Basics.
- Wine Spectator. The Okanagan Valley. Lynn Alley. 2009.
Marie-Claude Arnott - Marie-Claude Arnott writes about topics that interest her, from experience and with passion.
