Beaune is the starting point of guided tours at several wineries where our purpose is to learn more about pinot noir. Its famous 15th century winery Les Hospices de Beaune is a fine introduction to the region and the venue for a renowned charity wine auction held annually. Not only is this institution the major landowner of the area, the château is a remarkable example of medieval architecture and its museum a true testament to its original function: a hospital for the poor. Yet, on display are also stylish furniture, traditional tapestries and other period memorabilia. With such a long history in winemaking a brief overview reveals how the wines of Burgundy, in particular pinot noir, earned their reputation.
Overview of the Origin of Wine and of its Appellations
The first vines are attributed to the Romans who produced a wine called Falernum. Later, Charlemagne sold vineyards to monks who began to document their growing methods.
In 1395, a duke of Burgundy banned gamay grapes from the Beaune region in favor of pinot noir. The appellation “Burgundy” was officially recognized in 1416 by a decree regulating its geographic boundaries.
After a few centuries of observation, the notion of “terroir” was introduced to highlight the importance of the nature of the soil, stone content, climate and orientation on gentle slopes. The criterion of vine stock selection was introduced later.
In the 19th century, a strict selection of the best parcels led to the “appellations contrôlées.” Finally, a wine hierarchy of was introduced in 1930.
The Difference between Grands Crus and Premiers Crus
Driving around, we see grazing cows in pastures where we would have expected to see vineyards. Evidently, the observations of the past still determine the best locations for growing grapes.
Indeed, wine rating depends on where the vines grow on the slope. For this reason a Grand Cru is made from grapes grown in the “heart” of an incline where vines benefit from good drainage. Comparatively, the upper part of a slope can be undesirable as erosion can wash away the soil and its nutrients whereas the lower part is often affected by stagnant water—resulting in bigger grapes and less concentrated flavors. And so, when it comes to appellation, a few yards could be the difference between a Grand Cru and a Premier Cru.
The Fortified Cellars of Bouchard Père & Fils at Château de Beaune
Located downtown Beaune, the Bouchard winery was originally established in 1731 by a father and son who bought the Château de Beaune and built cellars in the fortifications. Today, the domain covers 320 acres of which 86 are Grand Crus and Premiers Crus.
In spite of the large scale of production, tradition prevails over shortcuts. During three weeks, the grapes are harvested manually, carried in small boxes and sorted by hand.
With a growing production Bouchard needed new facilities, which were built close to the vineyards. Imagine a 108,000 square-foot cellar, 32 feet underground, with 4,500 vats, and millions of bottles!
The fortified cellar shelters 50,000 bottles of wines from before 1950. In 2006, the oldest wine, a Meursault-Charmes 1846, was served for the 275th anniversary of the winery. Also served and praised as “extraordinarily pure” was a Beaune Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 1865. As a result, such wineries show the importance of tradition in winemaking.
Exiting through a stone staircase, we climb the 23-foot thick walls of the fortress. Built to withstand the sieges of battle, its perfect humidity, constant temperature and shelter from light and vibrations had created a perfect cellar.
Drouhin-Laroze Winery and the Gevrey-Chambertin Appellation
Drouhin-Laroze in Gevrey-Chambertin is a family-owned vineyard run by Philippe and Christine Laroze and their son. Like most winemakers they like to meet peers, and since we travelled with American vineyard owners, they shared that they attend and enjoy the International Pinot Noir Convention in Portland, Oregon.
Here, the lesson-du-jour was about the fact that watering vines is not allowed in Burgundy, yet they can grow up to four inches a day. Indeed, the soil seems dry but in fact, moisture sits just below the surface thanks to regular rain. Furthermore, harvest time has been happening earlier in recent years due to warmer temperatures. And, with Dijon University nearby there is no shortage of labor as thousands of students apply for the jobs.
The Gevrey-Chambertin appellation stretches over 128 acres for 84 owners, some owning more than others often as a result of land partition from inheritance. All are allowed the Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru appellation. As we visited the cellar, Christine pointed to a natural wall indicating that the vines grow on a calcareous soil of rocks—good for retaining heat overnight— iron, and clay at the bottom. The roots of vines can grow to 16 feet deep within 50-80 years. As for Drouhin-Laroze, they only use new oak barrels for their Grands Crus, and practice cold maceration.
Rôtisserie de Chambertin Celebrates Food and Wine Culture
Since wine is meant to be paired with food, lunch at the Rôtisserie de Chambertin confirmed its reputation as one of the landmarks of Burgundy gastronomy. There, the welcome is particularly joyful. Before descending into the dining cellar, guests are greeted by animated life-size “vintners” singing traditional drinking songs, in French of course.
Pommard Exclusive Château Appellation and Lameloise Restaurant
As the largest private vineyard in Burgundy, Chateau Pommard is a destination with its 18th century château accessible through a garden of flowers, vegetables and herbs. The museum is not to be overlooked - including its massive 16th century wine press, the only one of its kind, and the impressive kitchen with a roasting-spit activated by a whimsical pendulum.
When the guide lets us through a gate from the courtyard, we discover an extraordinary sea of green vines. Then, we learn about the variations in soil types and micro-climates. The clay soil produces a wine rich in tannin, an attribute of Pommard wines and the key element to good aging. Each plot is harvested individually and grapes kept separately to protect their individual characteristics. The creativity of the winemaker then gives a wine its unique character.
In spite of its 49 acres of mature and young vines, only an average of 85,000 bottles of the Grand Vin du Château Pommard are produced annually, and only from grapes from old vines. The remaining grapes from old vines are blended with newer ones, and bottled under the appellation Bourgogne Pinot Noir.
Although large cellars are not unusual anymore, Pommard's cellar has not changed in 300 years. Here, some 300,000 bottles have been resting in this sanctuary at a constant temperature for up to 40 years. Pommard wine is aged for 15-18 months in new oak barrels before being bottled, unfiltered.
Interestingly, Pommard is not entitled to the Grand Cru appellation because of its location too far south of Beaune; instead it produces a Premier Cru and a Village. It has, however, found an equivalency with its Château appellation—the only one allowed in the region. Initially, Pommard was classified as a Première Cuvée—today’s Premier Cru.
After such an informative morning, it was time to celebrate wine and food again. This time, it was at the famous three-star Lameloise restaurant where a number of traditional dishes with a contemporary twist are served with a perfect balance of pleasure, skilled service and cordial attention.
Romanée Conti Vineyard
The Holy Grail of Burgundy, the Romanée Conti vineyard is home to some of the most expensive wines in the world. For this reason, we were not the only visitors on a mission to find the revered “4.44-acre-plot" which stands in the “heart of a gentle slope.”
As noticed elsewhere, some yellowing vines show the challenges of viticulture. We find out that this condition is simply caused by diluted limestone. Surprisingly, the vineyard is only partly enclosed by a low stone-wall along a dirt road, and simply identified by a stone-plaque. Sold on futures for thousands of dollars a case, it is a reminder that a good wine comes to life in the cellar.
Sources:
- Beaune: The Capital of Burgundy
- Drouhin-Laroze Winery in Gevrey-Chambertin
- Histoire des Vins de Bourgogne
- History of Burgundy Wines
- Romanée Conti and French wine guide
- The restaurants of Burgundy
Marie-Claude Arnott - Marie-Claude Arnott writes about topics that interest her, from experience and with passion.
